We are located at 22 Glebe Road/Rte 9 in Spofford New Hampshire
Enjoy!
]]>Please email me at michelle@serendipity.house if there’s anything you’d love to buy- y’all know I ship. It’s on my to do list to add everything to the website, among many other things that I may never actually get to! Ha!
Enjoy,
Michelle
The original 45 video tutorial was shot in December 2021 and has been edited down to view here and on YouTube. Order all your IOD from our website and we’ll ship it right to your doorstep. We appreciate your support of our small family business in New Hampshire. Xo-Michelle
Supply List:
IOD Sunflower Mould
IOD He Loves Me Mould
String or Ribbon
Straw
Peanut Butter Suet Recipe: (adapted from https://www.birdsandblooms.com)
1 cup chunky natural peanut butter
1 cup lard
4 cups birdseed mix without sunflower seeds
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup flour
Melt peanut butter and lard over low heat. Stir in dry ingredients. Once cooled, shape into IOD Moulds and freeze for at least 20 minutes before de-molding. See video Tutorial for tips and tricks to attach string.
]]>As you’ll see in the video tutorial, you can cut the Inlay into pieces and arrange in different designs. First (after prep work), I measured the dresser front to determine the size of my design.
Next, I mixed a custom color of Debi’s DIY Paint, which works perfectly with the IOD Paint Inlay process because it’s all natural, made primarily of clay and chalk. After experimenting, I chose a 50/50 mix of Crinoline and Gypsy Green.
Watch the entire process here and let me know what you think. Have fun, Michelle
All products are available to purchase at https://serendipity.house
Product List for this tutorial:
IOD Chateau Paint Inlay https://serendipity.house/collections...
IOD Brayer https://serendipity.house/products/br...
DIY Paint Crinoline https://serendipity.house/products/cr...
DIY Paint Gypsy Green https://serendipity.house/products/gy...
DIY Paint Big Top Sealer https://serendipity.house/products/di...
DIY Paint Dark & Decrepit https://serendipity.house/products/da...
DIY Paint Golden Ticket https://serendipity.house/products/di...
Cling On Brush https://serendipity.house/search?q=Cl...
Turquoise Iris Artist Brushes https://serendipity.house/search?q=Tu...
Water Bottle Spritzer https://serendipity.house/search?q=Wa...
Gold Gilding Wax https://serendipity.house/search?q=Go...
]]>
Follow along as I show how I use the new IOD Iron Orchid Designs Paint Inlay on glass. Today, I combine the Grisaille Toile Paint Inlay with paints and Looking Glass Mirror Spray to make faux mercury glass mirror art. I chose blue and gold to show behind the speckles created with vinegar, but you can do any color you wish. Typically one uses only black, but you know I love to play and experiment!
Play and experiment— a great segue. The IOD Paint Inlays are a brand new one of its’ kind product. They are designed to use with a porous paint (like DIY Paint and others) without binders or polymers. They are fantastic on furniture— which you can see on my other tutorials. That said, I’ve been experimenting and playing to see what else I can do with the Inlays. Using them in Varnish over glass is one of my newest discoveries, and its all trial and error. Totally off-label, if you will, and the Inlays have a much better transfer and design when used in paints. Just a little FYI— but where would we be without us pioneers who aren’t afraid to play and fail? Nowhere and fast, I say! LOL
Check out the video on my YouTube Channel here:
You can find the products on my website with the links below. I ship daily from Southern NH USA. If you are outside he USA, please message me and I can help you out at Michelle@serendipity.house. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram for more content. Most importantly, have fun, get lost in yourself and keep creating 💕 Michelle
PRODUCT LIST
IOD Grisaille Toile Paint Inlay https://serendipity.house/collections/paint-inlays/products/grisaille-toile
Brayer https://serendipity.house/collections/iod-complimentary-products/products/brayer
Wise Owl Satin Varnish https://serendipity.house/collections/wise-owl-paint-products/products/varnish
DIY Paint Bohemian Blue https://serendipity.house/products/bohemian-blue?_pos=1&_sid=e5e72054f&_ss=r
DIY Paint Vintage Linen https://serendipity.house/products/diy-paint-vintage-linen-1?_pos=1&_sid=d3005e20b&_ss=r
DIY Paint Letterpress Grey https://serendipity.house/products/letterpress-grey?_pos=1&_sid=894bb3d66&_ss=r
DIY Golden Ticket https://serendipity.house/products/diy-golden-ticket?_pos=1&_sid=3e729fee5&_ss=r
Gold Gilding Wax https://serendipity.house/products/gilding-wax?_pos=2&_sid=66c7f2dfa&_ss=r
Water Girl Water Bottle https://serendipity.house/collections/iod-complimentary-products/products/water-girl-continuous-spray-bottle
Small Mister Bottle https://serendipity.house/collections/paint-inlays/products/mister-spray-bottle-4-oz
Cling On Brushes https://serendipity.house/search?q=Cling+on
Turquoise Iris Artist Brushes https://serendipity.house/search?q=Turquoise+iris
Other products used: (hardware store)
Rustoleum Spray Paints
Looking Glass Mirror Spray
Rubbing Alcohol
White Vinegar
Music content ID AWSFU88O5KCBTE7M
“Somebody Else” by Alright Years
Follow along in this YouTube tutorial as I show each step, including how I attach a strip of wood to hang (that came form an old bunky board). And, although I “finished” the canvas here, there really is SO MUCH MORE I could add to it! I might even keep playing and gold leaf or more color! There are various ways I could have hung this, too, maybe with a dowel. Point being, take this tutorial as an inspiration and a jumping off point to create something unique and special. When you do, please tag me on social at @serendipityhousellc because I can’t wait to see what you create 💙
I know it will be tempting to forward past the first 2 minutes of me talking, but I promise you, this is information you will need if use the Grisaille Toile Paint Inlay.
Here’s what you will need for this Canvas Art Project:
10 ounce duck cloth/ drop cloth, 60” wide, 1/2 yard
Strip of wood, 60 inches wide
Drill
Screws
Grisaille Toile Paint Inlay https://serendipity.house/collections/paint-inlays/products/grisaille-toile
Bohemian Blue DIY Paint https://serendipity.house/products/bohemian-blue?_pos=1&_sid=b5433c2cf&_ss=r
Weathered Wood DIY Paint https://serendipity.house/products/weathered-wood?_pos=1&_sid=b195c2394&_ss=r
Vintage Linen DIY Paint https://serendipity.house/products/diy-paint-vintage-linen-1?_pos=1&_sid=d86b883ec&_ss=r
Big Top Sealer https://serendipity.house/products/diy-big-top-topcoat?_pos=1&_sid=b7f10061b&_ss=r
Cling On Brush F30 https://serendipity.house/search?q=Cling+on
Small Mister Bottle https://serendipity.house/products/mister-spray-bottle-4-oz?_pos=1&_sid=9f3cdad41&_ss=r
Water Girl Spray Bottle https://serendipity.house/products/water-girl-continuous-spray-bottle?_pos=2&_sid=9f3cdad41&_ss=r
Have fun! Xoxo Michelle
]]>I found an old glass cabinet door in my stash, that I’m pretty sure I saved because of the mullions. Ironically, I decided to leave those off when I re-assembled my piece.
Follow along in the video to learn how to use the Looking Glass spray (which you can buy at the hardware store) and turn a normal piece of glass into an antique mirror look alike. BUT, if you love the look of the glass before you get to this point in the project, keep it as is. There are so many ways you can take this and make it your own.
I used One Hour Enamel by Wise Owl Paint on the frame and the back of the mirror. This product has a built in topcoat, which is why you didn’t see me topcoat. You may need to use sealer if you sue a different product.
A couple of tips for using the IOD Inlays on Glass:
- It’s super important to have a clean, dry surface and to trim your Inlays before you get started.
- Test the amount of time needed for the inlay to sit in your clear topcoat. I found that if I left it too long, fibers from the carrier sheet became embedded in the varnish.
- On a test piece, I left the inlay in varnish for a few hours. To release, I needed more water, which caused patches of the varnish and inlay both to lift off the glass.
- The best timing with the Wise Owl varnish to remove the carrier sheet was at about 10 minutes or until you can see the paper to partially, but not fully, dry.
- If you don’t like your design or want to edit it in any way, the varnish and inlay come up with rubbing alcohol and a razor blade. This is exactly what I did with this door— if you look closely at my before photo, you’ll notice pink flowers from leaving the varnish to dry too long. No biggie— its just paint!
- when you use Varnish as the Paint Inlay medium, it will NOT smear when you topcoat or sand. Bonus!
Please tag me on Social @serendipityhousellc if you try this— I can’t wait to see your creations :) xoxo Michelle
SUPPLY LIST & LINKS
Iron Orchid Designs Rose Chintz Paint Inlay https://serendipity.house/collections/paint-inlays
IOD Brayer https://serendipity.house/collections/iod-complimentary-products/products/brayer
Wise Owl Varnish https://serendipity.house/collections/wise-owl-paint-products/products/varnish
Wise Owl Chalk Synthesis Paint https://serendipity.house/collections/wise-owl-paint-products/products/wise-owl
Wise Owl One Hour Enamel https://serendipity.house/collections/wise-owl-paint-products/products/wise-owl-one-hour-enamel
Gilding Wax https://serendipity.house/collections/gilding/products/gilding-wax
Cling On Brushes https://serendipity.house/search?q=Cling+on
Water Bottle Turquoise Iris https://serendipity.house/products/water-girl-continuous-spray-bottle?_pos=1&_sid=3ac7e5a0f&_ss=r
Water Bottle Small Spritzer https://serendipity.house/products/mister-spray-bottle-4-oz?_pos=2&_sid=3ac7e5a0f&_ss=r
Watch the Video on YouTube and make sure to subscribe to our channel 💙
Grab your paint brush and DIY Paint, then grab your red lipstick….
Have the products sent right to your door!
DIY Paint Weathered Wood https://serendipity.house/products/we...
DIY Paint Skeleton Key https://serendipity.house/products/sk...
DIY Paint Vintage Linen https://serendipity.house/products/di...
DIY Paint Big Top Sealer https://serendipity.house/products/di...
Cling On Brushes https://serendipity.house/search?q=Cl...
Gilding Flakes https://serendipity.house/products/gi...
Metal Adhesive https://serendipity.house/products/si...
IOD Bohemia Stamp https://serendipity.house/products/bo...
DIY Golden Ticket https://serendipity.house/products/di...
IOD Brayer https://serendipity.house/products/br...
Follow us for weekly LIVES and tutorials on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SerendipityH...
Pinterest:
Be sure to sign up for email updates at the bottom right of our website for first notice of new release products, special events and pricing.
Xoxo Happy creating, Michelle
]]>The IOD Paint Inlays are so brand spanking new, you might not understand how they work. Well, read these instructions and/or watch the video tutorial and your mind will be blown. They are so easy - and amazing.
No time to read now? Pin this project for later.
You can watch the short tutorial by clicking the video below. That will take you to the Serendipity House Youtube channel. There’s a lot of new techniques in this project - and watching new techniques is a great way to learn them. If you prefer to read the directions, keep scrolling and you’ll them below the video.
DIY Paint Dark + Decrepit Liquid Patina
DIY Paint Big Top Topcoat/Sealer
IOD Grisaile Toile Paint Inlay Paper
Water Girl Continuous Spray Bottle
Several soft, lint-free cloths
Tissue paper, old newspaper, or tissue paper from Paint Inlay
Ruler
Exacto Knife and razor blade
I’m teaching some new painting techniques in this project. Have you tried:
🖌 Wet Distress
🖌 Frottage
🖌 Shading
If you know how to do one or two of these painting techniques - you’re going to love learning the one that’s rarer - Frottage. And combining all three in one project is going to blow your mind. So let’s get started.
Yes, my project pieces came from a raggedy old vanity that’s getting a new lease on life as a pair of nightstands. You can use this tutorial to do your own nightstand makeover, tackle a dresser makeover project, or any furniture upcycle.
I prepped my pieces (after they were separated into two nightstands) by painting them in DIY Paint Letterpress Gray and letting that coat dry thoroughly. Next, I added a thin coat of DIY Paint Cowgirl Coral and let that dry.
Now I’m ready to start working with the new IOD Paint Inlay paper. To start, I remove the papers from their package and separate the tissue paper sheets between the paint inlays. Next, I trim the edges of the paper using a ruler and Exacto knife. I’m trimming to fit my project surface.
And that’s it - everything’s prepped!
When applying the paint inlays, the painted surface needs to be wet. (Also, Pro-Tip: they work best with chalk or clay-based paints - like DIY Paint.) After the first coat of the Cowgirl Coral was completely dry, I applied a second coat.
While the second coat of the Cowgirl Coral was wet - I began laying the Paint Inlay papers right into it. Lay the paper down with the grid side facing up. I gently smooth the piece in place with my fingers.
With my nightstands, the area I want to be covered by the Grisaille Toile is longer than one sheet of paint inlay, so I apply a second sheet. When placing the second sheet, be careful to match the edges of the design - similar to hanging wallpaper.
Once the papers are in the wet paint and smoothed with my fingers, I spritz the paper completely with water. Then I use the IOD Brayer and roll out the sheets to get them as smooth as possible.
I repeat all the steps above with the second nightstand. A fresh coat of Cowgirl Coral, lay the papers into the wet paint, spritz completely with water, and use the IOD Brayer to roll out wrinkles, smoothing the papers into the paint.
The papers extend across the front of each nightstand. It goes above the drawers on the nightstands, but they don’t cover the bottom front trim.
For this step, I used a razor blade (you can also use an Exacto Knife) to separate the drawers, cutting the paper along their seams. Once this is done, remove the drawers from the nightstands and set them aside to dry.
With the DIY Paint, within an hour or so, the pigment from the paint inlay paper is already embedded into the paint. But you can leave everything at this stage overnight - and even for several days, before moving onto Step 5.
Before peeling the paint inlay paper off the nightstand drawers, dampen the paper again by spritzing it with water. Then simply lift off the backing paper from the surface. Save the backing paper for another project (yes, there’s enough pigment for one more application.)
You’ll see the Toile design is embedded in the paint. (Pause here to marvel at this new product with a few ooohs and aaahhhs.)
This technique will bring the vintage into this nightstand makeover. Using a damp, lint-free cloth, rub back the paint from the edges of the drawers. This lets the Letterpress Gray finish under the Cowgirl Coral peek through.
Once you’re happy with the effect you’ve created, grab the Water Girl Continuous Spray Bottle - but this time, fill it with a mixture of 1:1 water to topcoat. Spray to coat over the paint inlay.
I struggle with pronouncing this one correctly - but I’ve mastered the technique and I love the textured finish it adds.
I used the tissue paper that came with the Paint Inlays, between the papers themselves. You can also use newspaper, regular tissue paper, or anything you have on hand. The Frottage technique is the process of laying the tissue paper onto a fresh, wet coat of paint then peeling it off again.
Let me explain what I did on these nightstands. With the DIY Paint Letterpress Gray as the bottom layer on the nightstands, I left it exposed on the sides. Now, I add a wash mixture (watered down) using the Cowgirl Coral. I combined half water and half paint into a container.
(My mixture was roughly 1:1 water and paint. But it can be more or less than this ratio, depending on your paint thickness.)
I applied this Cowgirl Coral right over the Letterpress Gray. Once the nightstand side was covered, I grabbed a piece of tissue paper and laid it onto the wet paint. It took two pieces of tissue paper to cover the side completely. Next, I used my hands to smooth the paper down, but didn’t try to remove any folds or wrinkles - they add to the textured effect.
Once the papers are on - take them right off! Just peel the tissue paper from the side of the nightstand. You can see how this adds a little bit of texturized interest to the sides - and let’s some of the gray back into the piece.
Time to apply DIY Paint Big Top Topcoat/Sealer to the surface of both nightstands. Once everything is sealed, I always step back to see what I think - if anything - is missing from my pieces.
Most of the time the answer is “it needs some shading with a little DIY Paint Dark + Decrepit Liquid Patina.” I paint the Dark + Decrepit on one section at a time. Then, I wipe it off gently with a damp lint-free cloth. I may repeat this process in an area more than once to get the look I want.
I also take a small paintbrush and add the Dark + Decrepit to the groves on the side panels of the nightstands. This creates a shadowing effect, adding depth.
Once you’re satisfied with all the shading and shadowing of the Dark + Decrepit, it’s time for a final seal with the DIY Paint Big Top Topcoat/Sealer. The final step is to add the knobs on and slide the drawers back into the nightstands. I think they turned out so beautifully!
]]>No time to read now? Pin this for later.
In this edited video, you’ll see exactly how I created this gorgeous piece of fall wall art. There’s a lot of fast-forwarding because most of the techniques are repeated to get this look. The secret trick for this project is repeating a few techniques in each layer. Click on the video and I’ll show you what I mean. (pssstt: if you like to read through the directions, scroll on down!)
IOD Decor Ink (in Stone Gray and Black)
Wise Owl Chalk Synthesis Paint in:
Chocolate
Weathervane
Cypress
Tourmaline
Creme
Antique Red
Sea Salt
Black
Mandarina
Wise Owl Paint Bronze Heavy Metals
Daydream Apothecary in Sundance
Board to upcycle for project surface
Paper plate (or another paint pallet)
I did some basic prep for this project, including cutting the individual stamps out that I planned to use. From the Fruitful Harvest stamp, I chose the large pumpkin and one of the small pumpkins.
I also chose one of the Vintage Texture stamps to add to the tree I painted, which gave it detail and dimension - like a real tree! You can see in the video which of the textures I used.
Once you have those pieces ready, and the masks that come with these stamps you’re ready to get started creating the piece. Take out the board you’ll be using and develop the layout you want. Just a rough idea of where the pumpkins, tree, and leaves will go.
Begin by adding the IOD Decor Ink in Stone Gray onto the ink pad. Make sure the pad is well saturated with the ink, because you’ll use the pad to load the ink onto the stamps.
The first pass of stamping is with the small pumpkin. Stamp one onto the board and use that as the focal point for the entire grouping of pumpkins. Once the first stamp is on, grab the matching mask to the small pumpkin (that comes with the stamp) and lay it on top of the stamped impression. Wait for the ink to be completely dry, but that shouldn’t take more than a few minutes.
When you stamp the second impression of a small pumpkin, it will look like it’s behind the first pumpkin because of the mask. So, continue this masking and stamping process even as you add the large pumpkin in a couple of places on your board.
I also add in an acorn with stems and leaves with the Stone Gray ink at the bottom of my board. It looks like it’s fallen off the tree and floated down to rest next to the pumpkins. When you’ve added enough pumpkins, it’s time to move onto painting.
On a paper plate (paint pallet), I pour a bit of the Wise Owl Paint in Creme and Mandarina and begin to paint over my stamped pumpkins. I go back in and layer these colors by letting a coat dry while I add Chocolate to the pumpkin stems and the acorns and stem.
I use the next coats of the creme to add some highlights and then move to the mandarina. This step is all about feeling the color and shading and there is certainly no right way to do it. Let yourself go and play with the shading and mixing/blending the paint as you bring the pumpkins to life.
You can use some Weathervane with the other colors to create shading on the pumpkins. You’ll see in the supply list above that I also brought in some DIY Paint in Liquid Sunshine - which was the perfect way to blend and bring out one of the small pumpkins in the foreground.
I add a final large pumpkin to the left side of my board, letting it hang over the edge of the board. I mask the other pumpkins next to this so that when I stamp it on, it will look as if it’s behind these smaller pumpkins.
Then I begin stamping the leaves that are going to be coming from the tree I’ll add. I’m still using the Stone Gray ink for this step. I mask the branch and leaves before adding the next one so I can create the realistic look of a trees’ branches.
I work in some individual leaf stamps, masking to add multiple layers, to create a look of falling leaves. And, I add in more acorns and other bits of the oak tree. Once the ink is dry, I layer paint on the stamped images, beginning with the last large pumpkin I added. This one is done in Tourmaline.
Next, I begin to paint the tree trunk, using more Chocolate Wise Owl Paint. I add it free hand but the placement of the branches, leaves, and pumpkins makes it easier. Once the paint has had a few minutes drying time, I pull out the wood texture from the Vintage Textures stamp.
I arrange three of these texture stamps onto the plastic sheeting that comes with the stamps. You can also use a separate IOD Thin Mount for this. By doing this, I can use the IOD Brayer to roll some of the Wise Owl Paint in Black onto all of these stamps at one time.
I pour the Black onto another paper plate and roll the brayer in it, and then stamp them on the tree, creating a natural looking pattern of real tree bark. Continue this down the trunk of the tree. I go back with a single texture stamp and add more black paint on the tree as needed.
By this time all the paint on the pumpkins has dried and I’m ready to add some details back by stamping again with IOD Ink in Black. After loading an ink pad with the black ink, I ink up the small and large pumpkin stamps, one at a time, and stamp the painted pumpkins. I use the mask to protect the surrounding pumpkins as I stamp each one.
The details of the stamps in Fruitful Harvest are amazing and so realistic. Stamping over the painted pumpkins brings them to life.
I pull out all of the other Wise Owl Paint colors I’m using, including the Antique Red, Cypress, and the Daydream Apothecary Sundance, switching to my Turquoise Iris artist brushes. I start by adding brown to the branches and acorns.
If you watch this section of the video, beginning at minute 4:25, you’ll see me start to have a whole lot of fun! Because I’m painting on the fall colors of nature, blending colors as I go. No one can tell you the exact colors to use and blend for this step - give yourself permission to create what you see in nature’s fall pallet.
The best part of this step is - you don't have to paint inside the lines! jUst worry about getting the fall foliage look you want right now. And don’t be afraid to add the red to those leaves.
Next, I go back and add a wider trunk to the tree. This adds the look of branches of fall color hanging down over the trunk - as if you’re glimpsing the tree behind the colorful leaves. I switch back to the wood texture stamp to add more of that finish onto the new part of the tree.
Once I’ve painted in the tree, the paint on the branches and leaves is dry. So I load the ink pad up with black ink again and repeat the process as I did with the painted pumpkins. I stamp with the blank ink over the top of the paint and create a detailed, realistic look to the leaves.
Again, the detail in these stamps adds depth and complexity to the leaves. Combined with the layered and blended paint on the foliage - just WOW. (if I do say so myself!) Note that I’m careful to mask the branches before stamping the one next to it.
PRO-TIP: masking prevents your stamped images from getting a muddy look. That happens when images are stamped over the top of each other. It robs the picture of its detail.
Do the same for all the acorns and other Oak tree bits and pieces. Next, I add the Wise Owl Paint Bronze Heavy Metals to highlight the leaves' gorgeous color. You can use the Turquoise Iris Artist brushes for this step.
I used a paint pen to go back and add in larger areas of detail along the tree branches and the acorn's thin branches. I also outline the tree trunk for some definition.
Then I dip a paintbrush into the bronze and brown (one at a time) and add flecks randomly across the piece. I run my thumb across the bristles and let the flecks fall and lightly spatter the entire piece.
The final step is letting the paint dry thoroughly and then sealing it with the Wise Owl Paint Matte Varnish. Then you step back and smile! Because this piece of fall decor is so gorgeous!
Happy Fall Creative Friends!
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No time to read now? Pin this for later.
I made a very short video tutorial that will walk you through what I used and all the steps I took to create these beauties. You can watch it here or scroll down to see the list of supplies you’ll need and read the step-by-step instructions.
Chocolate for Melting (combine Milk and White)
Disposable, plastic pastry bag or Ziplock Baggie
Scissors for snipping the pastry bag/baggie
2 Bowls for melting chocolate in microwave
Or - double boiler for melting chocolate
Spoon for chocolate
Parchment Paper
Small flat spatula or butter knife (to smooth back)
Edible Gold Dust in small spray bottle (a few brands make these)
Freezer access
Cookies - bake your own or buy pre-made
I started by ordering some cookies from my local baker. I wanted to get some chocolate and vanilla biscuit cookies in decorative shapes and varied sizes. Thanks to Keith at Baker’s Station in Peterborough, NH for this batch - they were perfect.
I used a microwaveable bowl to melt my chocolate, starting out with some milk chocolate melting chips. While it melted, I lightly cleaned my IOD Cameo Mould by wiping it out - just to be doubly safe.
Once the chocolate melted, it was time to get it into my plastic pastry bag. I used a spoon and scooped the chocolate in the bag. Once fully loaded (approximately half the bag filled) it’s time to snip the tip of the bag with the scissors so I can pipe the chocolate into the Cameo mold.
PRO TIP: The new IOD moulds show volume measurements next to each casting impression. You can use a syringe to get the exact amount, but I was just as successful using the disposable pastry bag. And you can even use a baggie and snip off a corner to pipe out the chocolate.
BEWARE: it’s easy to make the hole too big - ask me how I know! So make sure to cut the very tip of the bag (or baggie corner) to get a more controlled chocolate fill outcome.
No worries if it looks uneven and overfilled. You can use a butter knife or small flat spatula to smooth it and remove any excess chocolate.
After piping the melted chocolate into the mould images, put the entire mould into the freezer for just 3-5 minutes. Then remove the mould and get it over to your work surface. I recommend creating a space covered with parchment paper. Once you bend the mold slightly - the chocolate castings will pop right out.
If there is excess chocolate attached to the casting (from smoothing the back of the chocolate) it will easily break off with a little pressure from your fingers. Clean up the edges on any castings that come out like this.
Grab another microwaveable bowl and proceed through the above steps - this time using the white chocolate. Pop the filled mould into the freezer (3-5 minutes) and then easily pop out the castings.
Now you’re ready for your cookie/biscuit decorating!
To get the Cameo castings to adhere to the cookies, I combined the remaining melted chocolate - both milk chocolate and white chocolate together in one of the microwaveable bowls and remelted the combo.
While I waited, I brought out the individual cookies and chocolate castings and began to match up color combinations and sizes. Once the excess chocolate was ready, I knew which Cameo’s were going on which cookie.
Using a spoon and my fingers (!) I applied the mixed melted chocolate onto the back of the Cameo castings and then laid them onto the cookie. Press down gently to get a good seal with the chocolate.
Once all the Cameo castings are on the cookies - it’s time for the final flourish!
Yes, I discovered edible gold dust. I chose one that comes in a small atomizer bottle. I gave the top of each cookie a complete spray with the gold dust and they look amazing! Not too much bling but it’s the perfect finish for these stunning beauties.
Did I tell you this was an easy cookie decorating idea?
]]>Now you’ve got a labor of love that will knock your (and everyone else’s) socks off!
No time to read now? Pin this post for later.
You can see exactly how I did some of the techniques I used as I created the Frida Wardrobe in this short video tutorial, including blending and feathering paint. If you like to consume written tutorials, scroll on down for a list of everything I used and step-by-step directions.
Depending on the state your furniture piece is in, you might need to clean and prime it as your pre-first step. With a light background, the colors in the decoupage papers show up beautifully. I used two coats of Wise Owl Paint’s Primer to cover the wardrobe completely.
Start by cutting Frida’s image out of the full decoupage sheet. After it’s cut out, take the full image and decide where to place it on the front of the bureau. Offsetting the image leaves room for other design elements.
Using any decoupage medium (I used DIY Paint’s Liquid Patina) gradually apply the decoupage paper to the furniture surface. If you haven’t worked with decoupage papers for a long while (or ever), here’s a video and written tutorial that break down a decoupage project.
The basic steps include:
Paint the wardrobe with DIY Paint in Mermaid Tail. Don’t worry about smooth brush strokes - you’re adding movement and chunky strokes are fine. Next, go back and add one more coat of the Mermaid Tail to the wardrobe.
Make sure you paint the back, sides, inside doors, and drawers of the wardrobe (if your piece includes doors and drawers, like mine.) I pulled the drawers out to paint the sides so there’s a pop of color when it’s opened.
Apply DIY Paint Big Top Sealer on the entire wardrobe piece - including the Frida decoupage image. Let everything dry completely, somewhere between several hours to overnight.
Ready to give Frida a crown of flowers? I used Iron Orchid Designs’ Decor Transfers Wander and Wall Flower. Cut individual flowers out from the transfers - enough to appear as if they’re woven together into a headdress.
Apply the flower transfer pieces directly onto the wardrobe and on the decoupage paper image itself. IOD Transfers come with a plastic applicator that works easily, but make sure to take care while rubbing on the transfer to the decoupage paper.
PRO TIP: I use blue painters tape to hold the individual pieces in place when I work on a vertical project surface. Taping the piece makes it easier to hold with one hand, and rub on with the other.
Once the flowers are all rubbed on, seal the pieces with DIY Big Top Sealer.
To blend in purple paint, combine 3 parts Mermaids Tail with 1 part Carnival Red. Pour the two paint colors (in the right proportions) onto a paper plate and blend together. Start applying the blended color to the outer edges of the wardrobe.
I kept the purple to the edges to frame the composition, and then continued along the sides and back of the wardrobe. The center of all the sides remained Mermaid Tail blue at this point.
Next, feather the purple into, and over, the Mermaid Tail with a dry brush. To do this, continually spritz water on the surface of the wardrobe using the Water Girl Spray Bottle. Repeat this process on the sides of the wardrobe.
Inside the doors and on the drawer fronts, blend the purple completely across the surfaces. Don’t put purple on the sides of the drawers in order to keep the pop of color.
Grab a damp cloth and wipe any paint that made it onto Frida. For paint on the floral headdress, use a Q-tip to wipe all of the paint off each flower. Once all of the purple paint is blended on and you’re happy with the results, it’s time to seal with DIY Big Top Sealer.
Along the edges of the front drawers, use a Palette Knife to add “scrapes” of DIY Paint in Liquid Sunshine. Think “pop of color” instead of fully painting the edges of the drawer.
Next, grab the DIY Paint in Weathered Wood and add black dots that mimic those already on the decoupaged image. I placed some just off the image of Frida and the surrounding area.
Finally, rub on more flowers in the bottom lower corner of the wardrobe front to balance the design. You can also rub on some flowers on the side of the drawers to add movement and design.
Last step is to seal it again with DIY Paints’ Big Top Sealer - and she’s done! I savored this project, taking my time to blend and balance with paint and transfers. I hope you fall in love with your decoupage transformation like I did with this Frida Wardrobe!
]]>It all started when I found a dusty, plain, and very old trunk in a thrift store. I knew it could be transformed into something wonderful, but what?
Then I saw the Exploration Transfer... heard a train whistle blowing and the vision of a Railway Trunk Coffee Table was born.
No time to read this now? Pin it for later, here.
I made this video specifically to show you how I upcycled this old trunk. You didn’t miss a special live on the Serendipity House Facebook page - but you can watch the video below, or keep scrolling down to check out the supplies I used in my project. And you can read my step-by-step directions, too.
I covered the entire trunk with two (2) thick coats of DIY Paint in Skeleton Key. I painted right over all the hardware, rivets, and the lock. But I used painters tape to cover the trunk's original leather handle. (min 1:36)
When the paint dried, I sanded the entire trunk to get back some of the distressed, antique trunk feel. Then I vacuumed all the debris from the sanding to make sure the trunk surface was completely clean.
Next up - I applied Wise Owl Paint Varnish in Matte as my topcoat. (2:29) Let the topcoat dry thoroughly. Then get ready to rub on the transfer.
The IOD Transfer Exploration comes with 8 12”x16” pages of images. I went through the transfer and cut out individual images, leaving the backing in place until I had a rough idea for my layout.
If you cut out the images - Pro Tip - use painters’ tape, staples, or paper clips to secure the backing until you’re ready to use them.
Once I knew where I wanted my larger pieces (the trains), I used the application tool (included with the transfer), removed the backing paper, and applied a gentle, rubbing pressure. (3:06)
Then I cut a square of the grid lined acetate backing sheet, after the transfer was applied, and used that to burnish the transfer. It’s important to do this to make sure all the edges are down completely and there are no air bubbles in the transfer. Otherwise your transfer piece can start lifting off the surface.
Continue this process of using gentle pressure to rub-on the transfer images in the layout you’ve designed. (3:46) I made sure to put transfer images on the front, back, and sides of the trunk - along with covering the top. I burnished each transfer image after it was on the trunk.
Finish this step by applying another layer of Wise Owl Paint Matte Varnish over the surfaces with the transfer images. Make sure it’s dry before tackling the next step.
To create an antiqued look to the trunk, I applied DIY Paints Dark + Decrepit across the entire surface. I worked in sections (5:04), painting on the liquid patina, then switching to a clean cloth to wipe it back from the surface. (5:22)
Once this coat dried, I flipped the trunk upside down and screwed in the castor wheels as coffee table legs. (5:55)
At this point, I can turn the trunk coffee table right side up and give it a last creative assessment. That’s when I realized I needed FLECKS. Here’s what I did:
You’ll need to relax into this step because it’s a bit, shall I say, unstructured. That means, hold onto your anxiety attack - you’re going to unleash your creativity to add some dimension to the coffee table!
Here’s what you’ll need: grab the toothbrush, the Wise Owl Heavy Metals in Bronze Metallic. Dip the brush bristles into the bronze and hold the brush upright over the top of the trunk - and go wild! (6:21)
Use your thumb or a finger to rub across the brush bristles and let flecks of bronze fling everywhere. Repeat the same process using DIY Paint’s Dark + Decrepit - adding brown flecks to the bronze ones. Continue with both the bronze and the brown around all the sides of the trunk until you’re happy with this added dimension.
For my final step, I use the Watergirl spray bottle to spritz water over the surface of the coffee table. This gives the project added movement on the surface. Then just let it dry overnight!
It’s just a very cool piece - even if you don’t have train whistle music playing in the background every single time someone comes into the room!
EPOXY RESIN!
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This resin craft project is perfect for beginners - and the trays make the perfect housewarming gift, wedding gift, and hostess gift. I’m pretty sure these trays will blow the roof off of your charcuterie game, too.
Watch the video tutorial below to catch every step, or read on for a list of supplies and complete step-by-step instructions. I know I keep saying this - but wait ‘til you see how easy it is to DIY a wood serving tray with handles.
Start your project by giving the tray 2 coats of whatever DIY Paint color you selected. I used Letterpress gray, Hey Sailor, and Skeleton Key on the trays I created. (0:57 min) One little tricky part is getting the handles painted without leaving any drips - heads up on that.
Once the paint was thoroughly dry, I sanded them and then applied DIY Paints Big Top to seal.
Take your transfer pieces and lay them out on the tray to create the design you like. (1:06) Now grab the transfer stick (included with the transfer) and begin to rub the transfer onto the tray surface.
This shouldn’t take you a lot of effort or time - but to help you out, I’ll share a little trick! Catch a Wave (or a bubble!) The best way to explain what I mean is to have you watch the video at this point (1:12) and see how I am doing this step.
As you’re rubbing on the transfer, you can see a little wave or bubble pop up, when air gets under the transfer. If you keep your applicator stick behind it as you’re pressing across the transfer, it comes off the backing easily.
Once you’ve completed this step, take the transfer backing sheet and turn it to the smooth side. Use it to burnish the transfer, making sure it is completely adhered to the surface of the tray. (2:40)
At the end of the video, I will go over the details of what type of resin to use in this project, but the resin that comes with the Kits is “the right kind!” This epoxy resin is used for bar tops and furniture (think glossy finish.) It’s water resistant and withstands high temperatures.
Start by pouring equal parts resin and hardener, then pour the hardener into the resin. (3:33) Then, begin stirring the resin mixture with the popsicle stick. Keep stirring constantly and, at about 8 minutes, the cup will begin to get warm - which means it's setting up (as it should.)
Even though the epoxy won’t look clear in the glass, it dries clear. Don’t worry about all the air bubbles you see - we’ll take care of those easily once we’ve poured the resin.
Before you pour the resin on your project, make sure it’s on a level surface. The resin is self-leveling - a big plus - as long as the project is level.
Now begin to pour some of the resin onto the tray (7:11), and then tilt and tip the tray to let the resin pour over the entire surface. I know - that’s not keeping it level. But once you’ve got the resin spreading itself over the entire surface, then lay it down and it will level itself out over the tray.
You can use a clean trowel or stick to spread the resin, too. (8:41) Don’t worry about the stick/trowel making a mark in the resin because it will self level and smooth out. But if the resin is already starting to set up, you will leave a mark.
After you’ve poured the resin in and covered the surface of the tray completely - it’s time to pop the air bubbles before it dries. I recommend using a Heat Gun to do this and NOT a hair dryer. (9:52)
The Heat Gun pops the bubbles - takes them right away. If you don’t take this step, then when the resin dries, you’ll see little white dots across the surface of the tray. A hair dryer will blow around dirt and dust and mar the finish of the resin.
And that’s all there is to it! Wait 48 hours for the resin to dry completely and then gift/use your tray. Did you know it’s food safe? Yep! But the resin finish dries so clear it looks like there’s glass on the surface of the tray. So try this easy, budget home decor project for yourself!
Or for someone else - because these trays make gorgeous gifts!
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Adding the IOD Astoria Foliage Transfer, and sticking with cool gray tones overall, gave this simple desk style for days. It’s definitely not a complicated project but check out the tips and techniques in the video that make all the difference in this project.
➡️ IOD Decor Transfer Astoria Foliage
➡️ DIY Paint in Letterpress Grey
➡️ DIY Paint Dark + Decrepit Glaze
➡️ DIY Paint Insider Paint Brush
➡️ OOOO Synthetic Steel Wool
➡️ Soft Clean Cloths
➡️ Paper plate
You won’t see this step in the video (if you watch it) but I don’t want to skip these instructions. I started by completely painting the desk with DIY Paint in Letterpress Grey. Once it was completely dry, I sealed it with DIY Paint Big Top Topcoat.
It’s important to seal before added a transfer on furniture so don’t skip this step! There’s another super important reason for adding the sealer in this project - the glaze added in the final step! I share the reason why when we get to that step.
Stay tuned! (But seal your furniture piece now!)
The Astoria Foliage transfer has two sheets that go at the top of the desktop and two that are at the bottom. The project required another two transfer sheets in order to cover the top of the desk completely, so one and a half packages of Astoria Foliage.
Starting at the bottom left of the desktop, carefully line up the transfer design with the left and bottom edges. Caution: be careful not to hover to close to the surface or the transfer will adhere before you have it lined up. (min 1:04)
Then, with the tool that comes in the package, begin rubbing gently to release the transfer from the backing. If you find yourself really rubbing in one spot and it’s not releasing, try going back to see if you can catch an air bubble to help get it to come off. (1:40) Place the rubbing tool just behind the bubble and gently push and it will release.
Once the transfer is completely released, use the backing to rub across it so that you are burnishing the transfer before continuing on.
When moving on to the next section of the transfer, look for the pieces of the design in each panel that should connect to each other. (2:16) Then hover the next panel of the transfer to line those up before laying it completely down to gently rub.
Note that the panels that go on the top of the desk have the top half of some flowers to guide you in lining them up. All the pieces of the transfer should fit together like puzzle pieces. (3:21) Continue rubbing on and burnishing the transfer to cover the desktop.
Here comes the fun part - for me - adding depth and texture to the piece. First, I blended a custom formula with IOD Decor Inks to create a color that was slightly blue-gray in darker than the gray paint.
I saturate the IOD Inkpad with the ink and let it soak in a little. (4:06) Then, starting with a drawer front, I pat the ink pad along the edges of the drawer and the handles. It creates subtle depth and begins to bring out a vintagey look (yes! That’s a word.) (4:26)
I apply the ink in this way around the corners of the desktop and the edges of the table legs.
Grab a paper plate and pour some of the DIY Paint Dark + Decrepit glaze onto it. Have a soft dry cloth nearby as you begin to paint the glaze onto the painted surface one small section at a time.
Let’s talk about the importance of sealing a piece before applying glaze. Yes, I sealed it prior to applying the transfer and I mentioned there was an important reason for the sealer prior to glazing. It’s because the sealer will soak into unsealed wood.
The effect you’re creating with the sealer is caused as much by how you wipe back the glaze as it is by applying it. You need to be able to control the coverage of the glaze. If the piece is unsealed - the glaze will soak in, creating a dark area that you won’t be able to adjust.
So remember to seal the project after applying the chalk paint.
As you paint the glaze on, pay attention to all the crevices, nooks, and crannies. Stop after applying it to a section, take the clean dry cloth and begin to wipe it back. If the glaze is streaked from your brush stroke in an area or becomes too dry, switch to a damp cloth to rub off and smooth it. (6:17)
I’m primarily wiping it from the flat surface areas and leaving it in the creases and the edges. Don’t worry about wiping off too much. After the coat dries, you can reapply and rub again to get the desired effect.
For the desk legs, I apply the glaze thickly (6:40) and direct it into any edges or crevices before wiping back each section. Pro Tip: when you wipe back the glaze, pay attention to your strokes because they will show up on the finished piece.
Once the entire desk is covered with the glaze and it’s where you want it to be, time to smooth things out. Go over the desktop with the synthetic steel wool (see supply list) to remove any bits that might be sticking out. (8:30)
After it’s smoothed out, I apply the glaze lightly to the desktop using the dry cloth dipped into the glaze. I’m still working in small sections to apply and then wiping off with a slightly damp cloth. What’s left is a soft antique look to the desktop that gives it the vintage vibe. (8:54)
After the desk has dried, I apply DIY Paint Big Top topcoat to the entire piece to seal it. And that’s a wrap! A simple project with a few steps and products that blend together perfectly.
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Talk about getting a song stuck in your head. But that’s ok - I’m a fan-girl.
I’ll tell you exactly how I did it, but in case you don’t have time to read it now, pin it for later.
You can watch the video and see for yourself the easy parts of this project - and learn the level of patience you’ll need to cast all the words.
Let me break it all down for you, step-by-step, once I share with you everything I used in this very fun project.
Now prepare yourself to start casting the words and give yourself a couple of hours. It took me about an hour and a half to do just the first two lines in the lyric. The letter castings are small and fragile so channel your inner patience goddess.
Before you start, take your wide painter’s tape and tape off a “frame” around the perimeter of the plywood. You can layout the words and birds within the framed area.
Start by writing out the lyrics on a piece of paper as your guide. Trust me, even if the song is written on your heart - take this step to double-check your work. Next step, and one you’ll repeat regularly, is to dust the mould with cornstarch - just brush right into the mould.
Then begin pressing the IOD Air-Dry clay into the letters as you work on one word at a time. Once the clay is in the mould, it’s time to gently extract them.
HINT: Some of the words will need double letters (L’s are in high demand) so you’ll go back and create the second letter. Sometimes you can add it to the next batch of letters.
Remember I mentioned these letters are small and fragile? Don’t worry, they come out of the mould perfectly using this best practice: turn the mould upside down on the board surface and gently roll it back to expose the casting. Just use your fingertips to gently release the delicate casting. (Minute 2:05)
A great trick for easier release is to rotate and flip the mould so you can work and roll from the side the letter castings are on. (3:13) Then re-dust with more cornstarch before going on to the next word.
I created two to three words at a time, then grabbed the Titebond glue, poured it into a paper plate, and, using my finger, rubbed it onto the back of individual letters. Place each letter on the board surface lined up where you want it to go - but don’t press down yet!
After gluing down 2-3 words, go back and straighten your letters and line the words up. If you need much movement, grab the palette knife to help gently lift and relocate the delicate castings. (5:19)
Using the Birdsong mould, I cast birds inflight. I started by brushing the mould with cornstarch. Then I pushed the air-dry clay into the mould.
TIP: With a larger mould, it’s good to give the casting a nice flat back. To do that more easily, I used a broad plastic putty knife to scrape off the excess clay.
Then it was time to roll back the mould and release the casting. (6:56) Best advice I can give you is to take your time and roll back the mould very slowly. There are thin, delicate ends on the bird’s wings that can easily break. (absolutely the voice of experience speaking here!)
With a soft dry brush to go over the dry clay, begin painting the entire surface of the project with DIY Paint in White Swan. Cover the board surface, letters, and bird castings completely. (7:33)
Across the board surface, around the birds and the letters, I apply the DIY Paint thickly. I used a small artist brush to create texture and movement with globs of paint! (“Globs” is a technical term. 🤣)
Next, grab the DIY Paint Black wax and brush it directly onto the bird castings. (8:00) Then switch to DIY Paint Clear Wax and apply it to the rest of the project surface with a wide brush. Adding the clear wax before adding black wax will keep it from being too dark.
Take a clean, lint-free dry cloth and wipe back the black wax from the birds, leaving it in the crannies and details.
Finally, go back over the letter castings, and all around them, with the black wax. (8:56) Apply it in sections and then grab another clean, dry, lint-free cloth and wipe back the black wax from the letters and the board surface. (9:10)
Continue to repeat this process as you add the black wax over the rest of the project, section by section. Stop and wipe back the wax after each section receives the black wax.
Once all the wax was wiped and buffed the way I wanted - I added IOD Decor Ink in White to an IOD Inkpad. Then I “pounced” the surface of all the letters and the birds. The final outcome is black wax in the crevices and white ink on the high points, giving more contrast and emphasis to the castings.
That is all there is to it. All I have left to do is hang my wood sign and watch everyone get the lyrics to the song stuck in their heads!
I can’t wait to see what you create. Are you a Beatles fan? Or maybe we'll see Van Morrison lyrics popping up on signs everywhere? YAY!!
And I’m still smiling.
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Today’s dresser makeover is the perfect marriage of DIY Paints and gorgeous decoupage papers from Mint by Michelle Papers. Here’s the big reveal - I made some mistakes that cost me a little time but they also gave me a chance to demonstrate some “fix-it” tips. Silver lining.
You can (and with paint blending, you probably should) watch the whole video right here to learn these techniques. It’s great to pause the video and try the steps on your own project.
If you like to read the instructions, keep scrolling down to find the complete supply list and step-by-step instructions, complete with video timestamps so you can see what I’m saying.
Before hitting the record button on the video, I prepped my dresser by covering it with two coats of Wise Owl Primer and two generous coats of DIY Paint Liquid Patina. Then I laid it down on its back because I find it so much easier to work on in that position.
When you iron on decoupage, it reactivates the decoupage medium you used. Make sure there’s no water/steam in the iron and turn it to the warm setting. I always start with my paper lined up on a right angle. (timestamp 1:36)
Here, I line it up with the bottom left corner of my dresser surface.
Remember when you decoupage, the paper will shrink, so start in the middle and work out. Place the Teflon heat sheet right in the middle of the paper and start ironing in nice clean, smooth movements. Continue by constantly moving the iron. (2:11)
Once the decoupage paper is ironed down, right to left, across the middle drawer, I use a very sharp Exacto knife to razor across the drawer. (3:14) My tip here is to rest the knife where the seam will go. I like the clean edge I get cutting along drawer edges with a knife versus ripping it.
Then I continue with moving the Teflon heat sheet to the top and bottom areas. If there’s any paper slippage as I’m working, I readjust to the right angle I’m working from (bottom left corner.) After the decoupage paper is ironed down completely, I’ll make sure all the drawer edges are cut. (5:06)
At this point, I stand the dresser up to check out my progress (which I love!) and get ready to iron on the last corner piece. (14:39) I found this step super awkward with the dresser standing up and much prefer working with the dresser lying on its back.
Definitely experiment and find the position that’s comfortable and easier for you when you’re working on your own projects. Kudos to anyone who can do it with the dresser upright. Remember, we’ve been decoupaging for years, so use what you know!
On the directions, it says “if you’re going to use a water-based topcoat, spray it on.” But I like to try things and maybe make some mistakes (that I never repeat) so I brushed on my topcoat. And what happened was I got wrinkles, bubbles, and my paper lifted.
Now I can tell you that the reason you spray is so you don’t soak your paper. I ended up with a regular decoupage piece rather than the flat-iron method. That’s fine but I did spend a lot of time…
So pause (8:02) and watch me fix my mistakes by doing a little bull botox with some glue. I wipe up any excess glue while pushing the paper down to smooth bubbles and wrinkles.
This is what I live for - playing with layering and blending paint. Have you tried any of these techniques? Watching the blending techniques (8:41) is your best bet but I’ll do my best to break it down for you here.
I paint the entire dresser (except the decoupaged area) with DIY Paint’s Layered Chocolate. Once that’s done, I begin to add paint in layers using DIY Paint in Weathered Wood and Little Black Dress.
I use a broad, flat brush - the DIY Paint Sampler Brush - and lay the paint on in big chunks. (8:45) Once I have the side of the dresser covered as much as I want it to be, I grab a spray bottle filled with water and apply it over the paint. Now I use a completely dry paintbrush - Cling On Brush (#B10 or #B12) - and start blending.
I repeat this process, adding chunks of the colors, spraying with water, and blending with my dry brush. Once I’m satisfied with the side, I spray the entire panel with lots of water (9:39) and let it run down to create movement.
Next, I add DIY Paint in White Swan, outlining the edges of the side panel. (9:44) I continue adding the White Swan, blending, and end with a final spray of water. Then I use a wide putty knife as a trowel to pull the pain down the side of the panel. (10:13)
I repeat the process of adding White Swan, spraying with water, and blending with my dry brush continually until I’m satisfied with the look of the panel.
Time to start working on the front of the dresser by adding DIY Paint in Weathered Wood along the front right side. Eventually, I cover most of the front, outlining the image of the bull. (11:16) Then I come back and add in strokes of DIY Paint in Little Black Dress.
Once the paint is applied, I grab a clean wipe and start to pull some of the paint off the decoupaged image and blend. (11:47) Grabbing a Cling On Brush (F40) I add in some White Swan and get back to the dry brush blending and spraying water.
I continue this process until the paint is blended just like I want. This is where you get to play and create: add paint and water, blending with the dry brush until you’re happy.
My final paint technique is using an old toothbrush and DIY Paint’s Liquid Patina in Dark + Decrepit. I dip the toothbrush into the Dark + Decrepit and, using my fingers across the brush bristles, I add flecks across the front of the dresser. (13:18)
My final artistic, creative touch is to use the toothbrush to fleck some DIY Paint Liquid Patina in Pennies from Heaven - for a touch of copper! Perfect.
After all the paint has thoroughly dried, I complete the dresser by applying DIY Paint Big Top Sealer. And it’s stunning - if I do say so myself!
I promised I’d take you on a deep dive into the painting techniques I used to take the dresser makeover project to the next level, so here’s the rest of the story for this gorgeous Pink Bureau!
But wait - did you miss Part 1? Go back and watch the video here and you can read the step-by-step instructions here. Do you know what I’d do? Watch and read - both. Yep - because this is a visual project with so much spontaneous creating you’ll want to absorb it all.
The video for Part 2 is short and a little different. I’m not talking you through every step because there’s so much freedom to be creative with a project like this one. And that’s the fun part, in my opinion! So relax and watch the video all the way through before you worry about mastering these techniques.
Then read on for all the tools and supplies I’ve used and some step-by-step instructions below! The beauty of the painting techniques I’m showing you is all about you rolling up your creative sleeves and experimenting. And let go of the outcome! I won’t tell you how many do-overs I had on a few parts of this project (let’s say “a lot.”)
But you can’t tell I wiped away paint and started over when you look at the completed dresser makeover. So don’t stress, just create!
First, let’s recap what I did in Part 1 to get to this point. I started by covering the dresser with DIY Paint Salvation Solution and then painted it with DIY Paint White Swan.
Next, I got busy with some:
Once I had the texture and movement the way I wanted, I covered it all with DIY Big Top Topcoat. Don’t skip this step, because some of the painting techniques would be a disaster if the clay wasn’t sealed.
I started the paint blending process by using DIY Paint in Kissing Booth as a base coat over the entire dresser. While applying the base coat, I made sure to get the paint into all the nooks and crannies of the castings, stamped clay, and textured clay. (Min 0:42)
Don’t panic about painting over the transfers - it’s all part of the plan! Once the entire dresser is covered, let it dry completely.
Grab the DIY Kissing Booth and Cowgirl Coral and start applying brush strokes of one color and then go back and apply the next color in the same way. (Min 1:27)
Now, trust yourself and the process on this next step. Take the Water Girl Spray Bottle and a wide dry brush. First spray the water across the area where the two paint colors were just added. Immediately start blending the paint with the wide brush, stopping to wipe excess paint off the brush often.
Continue to repeat spraying the water and blending with the brush as many times as you feel is needed to get the look you want. If you watch the video, it may seem like I’m repeating this a lot and I am! I love playing with the paint!
Now that you see we’re using water in this technique you probably understand why it was important to seal with the Big Top before launching into paint blending. Otherwise the clay would have re-wet and softened.
I go back and add more swatches of Kissing Booth and Cowgirl Coral, spray with water, and wipe with the dry brush. Blending, blending, blending. With this technique, I don’t need to do any sanding. (Min 3:12)
When I get to a point that I’m satisfied with the blended paint, I grab a clean, dry soft cloth. It’s time to wipe back the paint from the roses I applied with the IOD Painterly Floral Transfer. You won’t believe how many times I wiped the paint off and went back to paint over and start again.
The good news is there’s no plan and it didn’t hurt or ruin the project by my doing this. So if you don’t like how this step, or any step, is looking - go back to square one. I give you permission!
As I wiped the paint from the rose transfers, I realized having a photo to pinpoint their location would be super helpful! (Hint Hint) Watch at min 3:45 as I begin to wipe back the paint and then touch up the areas that I didn’t want exposed.
Once the rose transfers are exposed, I move on to the remainder of the dresser, blending the Kissing Booth and Cowgirl Coral across the stamped clay area and the rest of the dresser with the wide dry brush.
I finish up my paint blending step by sealing the dresser with a coat of DIY Paint Big Top Topcoat and let it dry.
Now I add DIY Paint in Golden Ticket to the lettering on the stamped clay, and on the fern frond I stamped alongside it. I use a small brush to better get it into all the crevices, using a ‘dabbing’ stroke. (Min 8:53)
I use a soft, dry cloth to wipe back the Golden Ticket, leaving it to highlight all the letters and fine details in the stamped clay. (Min 9:13) The layers of blended paint and colors is adding to the overall texture of this dresser project!
The next step involves DIY Paints Dark + Decrepit Stain. I apply it over the textured areas of clay, the bird castings, and the leaf castings. (Min 9:54) You’ll see that I use that dabbing technique with the brush to make sure it’s in all the crevices.
Once the area is covered, I use the soft, dry cloth to wipe back the Dark + Decrepit.(Min 10:39) Then I use a damp cloth to lighten and clean the edges across the textured area and the bird castings. You can also see where I feathered in some Dark + Decrepit shading around the drawer edges. Just play with shadowing and shading- have fun with this part! It’s when the piece really comes alive!
While the video shows the finished look and doesn’t break down these steps, let me explain what I did on this step. I took a fine paint brush, dipped it into the Dark + Decrepit and just drew a line around the edge of the roses.
I did this on all the Painterly Floral Transfer roses on the dresser. Note the lines of the Dark + Decrepit that happened here and there across the roses. I loved it! So - naturally - I grabbed an old toothbrush, dipped it into the Dark + Decrepit and went wild!
Not really! What I actually did was run my fingers across the bristles of the toothbrush while I held it in front of the dresser. Dark + Decrepit speckled across the rose transfers - not too heavily - just enough to add to the depth of the textured piece.
Don’t forget the dresser legs. I embellished them with DIY Paint Golden Ticket. One final coat of DIY Big Top over the entire dresser and it’s complete!
I hope you take the time to try some of these painting techniques on a project soon. Once you get started, let your creativity have the wheel!
P.S. Get in on the Serendipity House Reward Points to earn money off future purchases by clicking the blue icon in the bottom right corner of the Serendipity.House home page.
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Hey there! It’s been so long since I’ve done a piece of furniture exactly like I want - letting my creativity have the wheel - and I loved the whole process of letting this dresser makeover unfold!
My main inspiration was to have texture and movement, building layers with Iron Orchid Designs Stamps, Moulds, Air-Dry Clay, and Transfers. There was a big messy middle to this project but in the end - you’ll see how I used some painting techniques and DIY Paints to blend the texture into a beautiful Pink Bureau, with touches of gold!
Now, this is just Part 1 of the dresser transformation but I promise Part II will be here next week. By the time you find this tutorial - Part I & II will be here to inspire you. Even if you prefer to read the step-by-step instructions, take a minute and watch the short video. You’ll also find timestamps in key spots throughout the instructions.
I started out by painting the dresser with two coats of Debi’s DIY Paint Salvation Solution. Once it was dry, I went to work with some IOD Air-Dry Clay to create the texture and movement I wanted in this project.
First, I used the clay with the IOD Acanthus Mould and created several castings to go across the bottom of the dresser. I brushed cornstarch into the mould, pressed clay in with my hands, and removed excess clay (you can use the moulds micro-rim as your guide to getting a clean casting.)
Next, I went to work on casting the pieces for the rest of the dresser front.
On my work table, I laid out an IOD Thin Mount and sprinkled it lightly with cornstarch, spreading it evenly across the surface. (Think of spreading flour before you roll out dough.) then I placed a large piece of the IOD Air-Dry Clay on the thin mount, grabbed a rolling pin and rolled the clay flat.
Once you have rolled the clay flat, apply the Tite Bond glue to the back completely. (min 1:21) Leaving the clay on the thin mount, hover it over the front of your dresser and choose the position you want it in, then press down. (Deciding where to place it is the hard part!)
Roll back the edge of the thin mount to remove it from the clay. (Min 1:44)
I placed my clay across the first and second drawer seams, so I took an Exacto knife and sliced the clay at the seams. Then I make sure the edges of the clay are completely attached to the surface by burnishing them.
Now it’s time to apply the IOD Kindest Regard Stamp. (Min 2:12) Again, it’s your choice as to where you want to actually lay the stamp and once you decide, push the stamp down into the clay and go over the surface of it with two fingers. Then carefully lift the stamp off.
I also added a fern frond from the IOD Frond Stamp at the edge of the clay, right next to the Kindest Regards impression. I use the same two-finger technique to go across the surface of the stamp, then lifting the stamp up carefully.
This is where I start adding the texture and movement I want to have on this piece. It’s going to look messy through the process, so you have to trust it! I start by adding Tite Bond around the clay piece and pushing the edges of the clay down and away from the main piece, keeping it organic so it blends into the surface.
Once I’m happy with it, I’ll go back and remove any fingerprints by smoothing them out of the clay.
Next, I apply more Tite Bond around the edge of the clay right on the dresser surface. I begin tearing bits of clay and, using my thumb and fingers, smear it in spots moving away from the larger stamped clay piece. (min 4:18)
I continue to add more Tite Bond glue and bits of clay where I need it. This step is all about you deciding where you want to add the movement. I stepped back at several points and took in the big picture to see where I wanted to add more texture.
Any excess glue can be wiped up later, but the important thing is keeping the design free form, adding texture and moving out and into the dresser front. It’s going to look like a HOT MESS for a bit - but don’t stop! It’s all going to get edited for the final version.
Next up, I begin creating the bird castings using the IOD Birdsong Mould and more Air-Dry Clay. Just as with the Acanthus Mould castings I made for the bottom of the dresser, I start by brushing the mould lightly with cornstarch and then press the clay in.
You’ll see that I’m using a putty knife at this stage to scrape off the excess clay. Once the moulds are filled (min 6:54) I turn the mould upside down over the thin mount and carefully roll back the mould to slip the casting out cleanly.
I hover the casting over my design to choose where to place it, then flip it over and apply the Tite Bond glue. Switching to my fingers as the best glue applicator and to make sure I apply it over all the tiny tips of the wings and tail. When applying the casting while it’s still wet, take care as you press it on to preserve the details.
I love the texture behind the bird casting, so I smear more bits of clay around the edges of the design to build more movement as I’m creating. (min 8:07)
I’ve applied an extra coat of paint and sealer to one side of the dresser and let it dry in preparation for adding the IOD Decor Transfer. PRO-TIP: always put Transfers over sealed paint.
I am placing the rose transfers randomly over the front of the dresser because they’re for background and will have some castings over them for texture. I still follow application best practices, including burnishing the edges completely after they’re applied.
After applying the Transfers, I glue more bird castings over them, applying the glue with my fingertips. While the castings are wet, you’ll notice that I carefully push the clay down and together. Pushing down and letting the clay spread out increases cracking in the clay as it dries.
The clay will shrink as it dries, so if the clay is pushed out and thinned, there will be more cracking. And that’s ok for many projects if you’re going for that look in whatever you’re creating.
At this point, I go over the piece with a stiff brush to remove the excess bits of glue (min 12:10.) Even though you’re painting over the glue and it won’t show, it adds lumps and texture where I don’t want it - so I’m removing them.
Once the castings are completely dry, I use a soft brush to paint them with DIY Paint in White Swan. Using a soft brush on dry castings is very important or you can lose some of the details of the casting as you brush over it.
Next, I’ll stand the dresser upright so I can take a look at the whole design surface from a different perspective. This allows me to see where I need to add more texture and movement. Immediately I see where I want to add more bits of clay.
I’m going to leave you here before I choose my paint colors for the dresser. Of course, the title of Pink Bureau Part I & II is a big spoiler alert but I wait until you see how I pull this dresser makeover together! It’s all about the painting techniques!
Ready for Part 2? It's here - Pink Bureau Part 2: Painting Techniques!
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I’m creating gorgeous topiary trees (Christmas Trees or any-time-of-the-year wooden tree decorations!) using wood repurposed from an old cedar fence.
This project lets you unleash your creativity with color and mould castings in so many ways. (Brain explosion!) Read on and let my divine creations inspire you! You're going to wish you had more wood...
You can scroll down to get a complete supply list for this project and step-by-step instructions. If you’d like to watch me in action, check out this video as I go through my wooden topiary tree creation project.
You’ll see time-stamps from the video in the step-by-step instructions to help you, too. [The beauty of the video is you can pause and rewind whenever you need to!]
If you haven’t used IOD Moulds before, watch my video on how to use them right here on my Youtube channel (hit subscribe while you’re there to be notified when more gold is posted! And to earn my undying gratitude...)
I rescued some old six-foot cedar fence posts and had them cut into rectangles in a couple of different sizes. (Timestamp:50) I line up a ruler on the diagonal, from corner to opposite corner, and draw the cutting line. Once you cut the pieces (I used my Reciprocating Saw) into the two triangles, you will glue the triangles together to create the tree. (1:44)
Note: I didn’t need to clamp the pieces after glueing them together, either.
I add a little bit of flour (you can also use cornstarch) to a paper plate and brush it into the moulds to help the casting easily slide out. Then I begin loading the clay into the moulds, pushing down well to make sure all the space is filled out with clay.
Pro Tip: You do this to make sure the casting picks up the details of the mould.
Once you have the clay in the mould, take a putty knife (any flat surface tool will do, like a table knife) and scrape the excess off. You’ll notice there are micro rims (the rim around each design) to use as a guide while scraping. This allows you to get a flat back on the casting, which will help the casting piece stick to your project surface (yep - you’ll be glueing it onto the wood tree!)
Now turn the moulds over and remove the castings. Do this with the mould facing down and rolling back the edge of it. The casting should begin to fall out, but if it sticks, as mine did, gently nudge the end out and continue to slowly roll the mould back so the entire casting comes loose.(4:05)
By using this technique, you’ll get a nice, clean casting without stretching.
Refill the moulds and repeat this process several times until you have enough castings to use on your trees.
Pro-Tip: roll some clay into a long snake form and lay it in the Trimmings I mould for faster fill.
Here’s where your creativity comes out to play! The design on your trees is all you. You might want to sketch out how it will look before you start glueing.
I’ll share the steps I took to add castings in a pattern on the trees, but there's no right way to do this step. You could:
Titebond glue can be poured onto a paper plate for easy access and application. I use my finger to dip and spread onto the back of the castings.
[If you don’t want to use your fingers, try popsicle sticks or even the transfer tool that comes with IOD Transfers.]
Turn the casting upside down and cover the bottom with the glue, then hover the casting over the tree form to position it before laying it down. I used the putty knife to cut the casting where it overlapped the edge of the tree. (6:42)
You don’t have to cover the entire surface as you’re creating because negative space is important in your design.
After the castings are glued down, make sure they completely adhere to the surface of the wood especially around the edges of the casting. Go over each one and push it down while trying to squeeze in lightly. If you push the castings out, you’ll get more cracking with the clay. (9:40)
You can then take your putty knife and trim the excess clay from the edge of the tree. If the clay dries, sand those bits off later.
Now set the tree aside to let the castings completely dry. If you go on to the painting step before it's dry, your brush could smooth out and remove some of the details of the casting.
I also created a tree with castings from the IOD Snowflakes Mould! I used all the same techniques and steps as I followed with the IOD Trimmings I Mould above.
Paint the decorated trees with the DIY Paint after all the clay is dry. I used DIY Paint Bohemian Blue, Skeleton Key, and White Swan on my trees.
You can drill a hole in the underside edge of your tree and glue a dowel into it. Decide on a pot to use, or a few different types like I did, to complete the look. For one of the topiaries, I painted a terra cotta pot in the same DIY Paint Bohemian Blue for a monochromatic look.
But we’re not done “jujjjing” them up yet!
I added DIY Paint Black Wax with a chip brush (a 30 cent brush from the hardware store - use them and toss them!) to the tree with the IOD Snowflake Mould castings. I work the wax into the details of the snowflakes and apply it pretty heavily to the project surface.
Once I’ve covered the entire surface, I use a paper towel and wipe off all the wax, except the wax that hugs in the small details of the snowflakes. (11:39) For an alternative finish, you can use a paint wash in another color or just leave it as is for a full monochromatic look.
Then I go to work on the tree painted with the DIY Paint Bohemian Blue and add DIY Paint White Wax using the same process as above. (12:59)
Taking it one step further, I create my own custom color waxes by mixing DIY Paint Clear Wax with some DIY Paint in Aviary (green) and Bohemian Blue.
To do this, put a large spoonful of wax onto a paper plate (one spoonful for each custom color you’re going to mix.) Next, add some of the paint to the scoop and then mix together. (please note, I mix with a plastic fork!)
Apply the custom color wax fully on a painted tree using a broad paintbrush. I cover the entire tree, front, back, and sides, holding it by the dowel I’ve glued into the bottom.
Then I let this dry for one hour before buffing off the wax. (13:21)
Once everything dried, I went back and added in French Gilding Wax in Gold. Using my fingertip to dip into the wax, I rubbed it onto the surface of my castings. Then I used a paper towel to wipe off a bit of the gilding wax as I did with the other waxes. (14:43)
This is another place in your design where you go off script! Pour out your creativity! (Or you can use copper or silver gilding wax.)
Follow Serendipity House LLC on Facebook because you never know what you might find there to inspire you. Please don't forget to share your creations with me!
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There was a little experimentation with trial and error in my project. But I kept track of everything that worked so I could pass it along to you. If you scroll down to the step-by-step tutorial and supply list below - you’ll get my perfect instructions!
Or you can watch me create Herbed Butter molds and Chocolates (and a mess in my kitchen) with IOD Moulds right here on the video. Hit the subscribe button while you're there!
To make the Herbed Butter and Chocolates, you have so many choices with all of the IOD Moulds. Here are the ones I used in the video:
Note: I found a couple of recipes for Herbed Butter and picked one and that’s what I recommend you do as well. The ingredients here include the Rosemary + Garlic butter recipe I made.
Whether you use dried or fresh herbs in your recipe, make sure everything is chopped as finely as possible. Larger chunks and bits will prevent the detail of the moulds from showing up. That’ll rob you of the gorgeous butter molds and all the oooohhhhs and ahhhhhhs you deserve!
Make sure to start out by leaving the butter out so it’s at least room temperature. It definitely needs to be soft and stir-able before you start.While that’s happening, chop all of the dry ingredients that will be mixed in with the butter. You’ll need as fine a chop as possible.
With butter soft enough to easily blend with a large spoon or spatula, add all the dry ingredients called for in your recipe. I add chopped Rosemary and minced garlic to the butter in a large mixing bowl. Make sure you blend the ingredients well.
Begin spooning the butter mixture into your mould. I used the IOD Snowflake and Boughs of Holly moulds to start. Squish the butter mixture into the mould just like you do with the IOD Air dry clay - push it into the mould so there’s no air in it. This will also make sure you capture the detail of the design.
Then clean the excess off the top of the mould with the edge of your spreader (the backside of a butter knife works fine, too.) If you see any chunks of garlic get those out because they’ll lift away from the design of the mould.
I filled most of the Snowflakes up and experimented with the smaller ones to see if they pop out cleanly enough. It did feel strange since I’m used to doing this with clay, but it works!
Once you’ve scraped off the excess butter mixture, pop the mould into your freezer. It won’t take long for them to set! When they’re ready, tap the mould lightly on the bottom and they lift right out.
Pro Tip: the edges of the Snowflakes are a little delicate and might be tricky so just take it slowly with those. Then all you have to do is arrange them on a serving plate. I recommend a colored plate, because these beautiful butter molds will look amazing on your Thanksgiving and Christmas table!
This holiday candy turns out fantastic whether you have semi-professional equipment in the kitchen or not. I definitely went lo-tech and you can see how wonderful my Chocolates turned out.
There are so many ways to melt chocolate - stirring the melting chocolate in a double-boiler, tempering chocolate. Or there’s the microwave and a spoon to stir with after every 30-second zap, which is the method I used!Anyway you choose to melt your chocolate, just know that it’s going to harden quickly so you need to be prepared.
While the chocolate is melting, prepare all the other ingredients you plan to add. I used candy canes crushed into granules and then I left some candy canes in small sized bits as well.
Next, I pulled the petals off some edible flowers for a gorgeous and creative twist to my Chocolates. I also had Slivered Almonds to add. The trick to adding larger bits to the chocolate in the moulds is to add it on the top once you’ve put the chocolate into the mould.
I think the skies the limit on the variety of recipes you can use making your Chocolates. I even found Peanut Butter chips that would work great!
So for this step, I spoon crushed candy canes into the bottom of the Boughs of Holly, Seashells, and He Loves Me Moulds, as well as petals I’ve pulled off edible flowers.
Put your melted chocolate into a piping bag, a pourable measuring cup, or just spoon it into the moulds. Remember - the chocolate will start to harden really fast so have your plan ready and add the chocolate right away. Once you’ve poured it in, you can use toothpicks or, like I did, the narrow tip of a chopstick, to get the chocolate into all the edges of the designs.
Pro Tip: Who doesn’t love a mess when you’re creating, right? I let all the mess just happen but you can always put parchment or wax paper down for an easy clean-up. Plus, as the chocolate hardens, it’s easy to scrape off of stone countertops.
I also combine some white and dark chocolate into the evergreen trees in the Boughs of Holly mould. You’ll see at the end that it looks like they’re dusted with snow! Mix different chocolates as you’re pouring because it’s all about being creative.
Once the chocolate is in the mould, you need to scrape off the excess. The easiest way I found to do this was with an old flour leveler, moving the excess chocolate right onto my counter. You can reuse the excess chocolate if you get it back into your bowl.
The final step is to add any larger ingredients to the top of the chocolate. I added slivered almonds and some larger bits of crushed candy cane.
Once you’re all set with adding anything to the back of the Chocolates, go ahead and pop the Moulds into the freezer to set. Once they’re done and out of the freezer, the Chocolates come out like a project using casting resin. They really pop right out. And that’s it! I plan to spend one whole mess filled day cranking out all the Chocolates I need.
Creative Inspiration comes to me as I take the Chocolates out of the Moulds, and I’m sharing them here with you! You could put a red cranberry at the top of a tree or the red petals from the edible flowers. If you add them just on the edges, especially on the bigger tree, they’ll look like lights or bulbs.
Don’t be afraid to make mistakes - they’ll still taste yummy. And by the time you’re on your third set, I guarantee you’ll be an expert!
Follow Serendipity House LLC on Facebook because you never know what you might find there to inspire you. Please don't forget to share your kitchen creations with me!
]]>So when I found a rustic bench growing roots in my storage, I combined the IOD Decor Stamp Painterly Roses with some DIY Paint (chalk and clay based paint) and Voila’!!
Watch the video to see how I transformed the bench, or read the steps here to create your DIY project. Or watch and read...
No time right now? Pin this post and video for later!
I use an Iron Orchid Designs decor stamp and DIY Paints ( a chalk and clay paint) on a rough wood surface. Did I mention how much I love roughed up surfaces? Well, now you know!
All the supplies listed link directly to the products on Serendipity.house website - click, buy, and have fun!
IOD Brayer [for applying paint]
IOD Thin Mounts [to mix paint shades]
Rough rustic bench [or something white and smooth for a totally different look.]
If this is your first time using the Iron Orchid Designs decor stamps, read through this info, then come right back here! You’ll be glad you learned these valuable tips before using your IOD stamps.
The Painterly Roses stamp builds a rose by layering three different stamps and getting more detail with each layer. It comes with 4 sizes to use for ‘background’ stamps, which go on first.
There are multiple choices for the detailed stamps to overlay on top of the background stamp. And the secret sauce is using different shades of the same color as you build those layers.
I'm using 3 different shades of DIY Paints "Kissing Booth" pink in my project, so read on to see how I created the medium and light tones.
I start by putting 1 large “dollop” and two smaller “dollops” of the main color I’m going to use onto an IOD Thin Mount to mix my 3 shades. "Dollop sounds like a measurement from one of my Grandma’s recipes - but watch the video at minute 1:29 for how much Kissing Booth and White Swan I actually pour.
The large dollop I’ll use as the darkest shade. I add a small amount of white paint to one of the small dollops to mix the medium color. And, a bit more white paint to get the lightest shade.
I’ll stamp the lightest shade first using the largest of the four, plain background stamps. Taking the IOD brayer (minute 2:20) I roll it in the lightest shade of paint and load it up, then roll the brayer directly onto my stamp piece.
Once loaded with paint, I turn the stamp over and place it where I want it on the bench surface and press firmly (but not too hard) on the stamp. I lift the stamp straight up to remove.
I repeat this process to cover the bench, reapplying paint to the brayer as I go to get the coverage I’m looking for. I don’t need perfect, uniform coverage, though, since I’ll be stamping over them with the more detailed rose stamp in the next darker shade.
I’m a visual person so, using a couple of the background sizes, I fill in empty spaces. When I see enough base flowers, I grab the smaller, detailed rose stamps and switch my paint color. (minute 4:10)
But, for a different blended look, I add a mix of the middle shade and the pure color onto my brayer to get an ombre effect on some of the roses.
I randomly add some rosebuds, too, in the middle shade of pink. (minute 6:47) The rosebud has two pieces - the bud and the stems/leaves. I’ll add the leaves and stems in green later.
Finally, I load the smallest rose detail stamp with pure color and apply on top of the roses. This gives depth and dimension but I’m not trying to make a perfect stamp.
Time to mix the green for leaves. I’m switching a paper plate mixing palette, putting DIY Paint in Aviary (the green) and White Swan side by side. I roll my brayer in both to get a slightly marbled effect by mixing them as I roll on the plate and onto the stamp. (minute 10:25)
Can you change your mind about the shade of your paint color? Yes! I go a bit darker as I progress across my bench with the rosebud stems. You know me - I like to go with the flow and see where my piece takes me!
Around the bigger flowers, I use a three-leaf stamp (minute 13:19) and mixed green color, re-applying paint after every stamping to get the effect I want. The leaves are curved stamps and I place them so they appear to naturally hug the roses.
I use different sizes of the three-leaf stamp across the bench, adding them to roses whenever I feel - visually - they need to go.
As I get ready to add the long stems to the rosebuds, a confession: my stem pile is a mixture from several IOD stamps! I’m probably using different stems here (minute 18:04) but you’ll use the Painterly Roses stems.
Still using the green, I use parts of the branch stamp to add stems to my rosebuds. I vary the shade of green and the length of the stems for the rosebuds. I like the result when the stamp is halfway filled with paint.
The Painterly Roses stamp comes with a ‘vine branch’ stamp to connect the roses - as if they were growing on a vine. I didn’t leave much room between mine, but I can still add small vines by using just a section of the stamp. You should add as many of the vines as you think your project needs.
The surface I stamped on was very rough but I like a chippy paint look. If you were stamping onto a smooth, white background the results would be much different. But you know what? For this project - I’m even going to rough it up a bit more with a light sanding!
Now that you've watched and read through this tutorial - go create!
Air Date 12.1.19
]]>The cabinet had seen better days, as it was scratched up, dark and really nothing special to look at. See what I mean 😕
I mixed OFMP Sea Green and Snow White for the perfect shade of dusty green. One of my favorite things about Milk Paint is that you can easily mix custom colors and have some fun! After two coats of paint, I sanded smooth to remove all the loose chips of paint. I finished it off with Daddy Van's Lavender Scented Wax (oh my!), and L'Essentiel dark wax, both of which are solvent free.
Inside the cabinet, I mixed my own glaze (!) with the Sea Green Milk Paint powder and L'Essentiel Botanics Clear Glaze (Serendipity House LLC ) which worked beautifully!
To this, I added antiquing glaze and stenciled a French love poem.
The glass door was restyled with Rustoleum Mirror Glass spray and black spray paint for a pitted antique mirror effect. I sealed with poly and added the sea green glaze so that when you open the door, it blends with the inside.
Such a fun project and a much prettier cabinet than it was when I started.
To purchase Milk Paint, go here https://serendipity.house/collections/sweet-pickens-milk-paint
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